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My updated Video to my first one, After the Tweaks I mentioned in the first video are now complete. In addition to the video, I wrote a article to help expla...
My updated Video with my new tweaks to my power panel and a little more on what's what. Hope you guys enjoy the new one as its a little longer so I could explain a few things.
Note that the article on Youtube is the same one listed here but in Parts, As youtube limited my characters. But I did make a few corrections that was pointed out to me and the correct way to write it. Thanks Guys.
The HF PDU on/off switch does not turn off that top output port called “Inverter”. If you open up that HF charge controller you will see that “Inverter” output is wired straight to the “Battery” input with no fusing. The on/off switch will turn off all the other PDU outputs including the bottom port. The 4-amp fuse on the back of the PDU protects those outputs.
Currently, the only way to turn off the top output port marked “Inverter” is with your Thunderbolt 68738 Load Switch
I would suggest you fuse the HF PDU separately for 10 amps between your Thunderbolt 68738 charge controller and the HF PDU. That would also protect the lights going thru the Radio Shack switch. I can see the load side of the large right-most fuse (DC loads) protects the HF PDU, but that 30-amp fuse is too large to protect the wiring between it and the PDU.
The Thunderbolt 68738 charge controller “Output Load” is limited to 18 amps before it shuts down. That limits the inverter output to about 200 watts, including any surges. Not sure what the size of that inverter is.
If you fuse the HF PDU separately for 10 amps, you can the wire it straight to the battery bank.
These are just comments and suggestions. You will have to make your own executive decision about your system.
Good Idea. Likely I will put a smaller inline fuse there.
Yes you're right about the watts, however I only plan on using very very low wattage for lights only. "3" watts per LED light say 25 lights thats 75 watts. But very very unlikely I will have them all on. Plus I actually plan on going DC with the lights which I will not be using the inverter but wanted the options. And my first 12 volt .3 amp 600 lumens light will be here tomorrow. If all goes well I will be doing a little reconfiguring. And just incase I do have leads for running the inverter off the battery, but I did not want to do that until I get some analog panel meters for it so I can monitor it. Any idea where to find those panel meters locally? I know radio shack use to sell it, sadly they don't anymore in store.
Interesting how you've used mostly all h/f gear. And pointed out how an inverter can mosquito a battery bank.
Just a Note of why I bought everything at brick and mortar and not the internet to get a cheaper price. I'm impatient...Though the lights and fans I had no choice to get what I wanted. I will have to get the Jensen 32" TV (DC) off the internet too. But it did raise the price just a bit.
Looks Good Ryan
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